How to solder PL-259’s compiled by K1VR
SUMMARY (LONG)
Soldering PL-259 Connectors
While High in the Sky
Compiled by
Fred Hopengarten K1VR
as of
THE ORIGINAL QUESTION
> On
I seem to have a flaky PL259 connection at the top of the
tower.
What do you use to solder up their? One of those Radio Shack
torches? Any
tips/hints? -- Matt K7BG
=====
IRONS
From: "Jonathan Starr" <kalepa@maui.net>
Date:
Best gun I've ever used for connectors is my Weller GT
with a
single pin powerhead. The
removable powerhead says 7A 120 V.A.C.
150 W. Don't
really understand how 7 amps could equate with 150
watts, but it gets nice & hot quickly, and has more
reserve heat
than any "loop" type gun I've used.--Jonathan
KH6X
=====
From: FXBEAMMEUP@aol.com
I use a hand held torch with small separate oxygen and
propane
bottles (Radio Shack has 'em.) The tiny flame is really hot and
you can solder the braid through the holes so fast the
center
wire insulation hardly even gets warm!! Scott K3FXB
=====
From: "Tom Wagner"
<tomwagner@mindspring.com>
Date:
I didn't see anyone mention the propane torch option...I
purchased a propane (not butane) torch kit many years ago
that
included a soldering tip. It's big and crude, but it's how I
solder PL-259's indoors and out. -- Tom N1MM
=====
Bill Turner wrote:
On the subject of soldering PL-259s, over the years I've
tried
many different soldering irons, but the best one I've
found is
the good 'ol Weller 250 watt
soldering GUN (not iron). The tip
is exactly the right size to solder the holes and the
temperature
is hot enough without being too hot. It goes from room
temperature to soldering temperature in about 5
seconds. Be sure
you get the 250 watt model, not it's little brother 140 watter.
Bill W7TI wrt@eskimo.com
=====
From: Tom Wagner <tomwagner@mindspring.com>
Date: Thu,
Look for a standard propane torch "kit". Mine came with a
soldering tip.
It looks like the tip of a big old soldering
iron. It's a
little hard to manage the heat on the tip, but it's
much better than a straight flame or *yuch*
a soldering gun!
To clean the tip, you'll need a small wire brush and a
cloth.
Wear goggles if you use the wire brush. -- Tom N1MM
=====
From: Landen Stoker
<KC5QDZ@iamerica.net>
Date: Thu,
Sorry to here about the PL259. I had the same problem about 2
weeks ago when I completely reworked and replaced most of
my
antennas. What I use is a butane filled soldering iron by
Weller,
there are several models to choose from ranging from 30 -
100
watts. I can typically solder 2-3 PL-259's on one fill
up. I have
2 light duty and one heavy duty models, and I would have
to say
they are a godsend when doing tower work.
Landen KC5QDZ@IAMERICA.NET
=====
From: Pete Smith <n4zr@contesting.com>
Date: Thu,
At
>this can all be avoided by purchasing a small butane
solder
pencil, all of about $70-80, and they are much better
than an
electric gun or pencil. besides, a 200' climb with
anything
besides myself is a "drag"!
Actually, the Radio shack job is under $40, though
additional
tips are around $10 each, but I strongly second the
point. They
make a decent amount of heat, are easy to carry, light easily
--
a nice product (made in
Pete Smith N4ZR
n4zr@contesting.com
=====
From: Jack Schuster <jsschuster@snet.net>
Date: Thu,
For what it's worth, I found the Radio Shack torch
useless. I run
an extension cord and use a soldering gun. -- JACK W1WEF
=====
From: w5hvv@aeneas.net (Roderick M. Fitz-Randolph)
Date:
I seem to swim upstream an awful lot: I watched Mike Gibson,
KH6ND, use a Radio Shack soldering iron (changed the tip
out for
one of the heavier ones so that the amount of heat
sinking
ability was greater) at the 120 foot level on a day when
the wind
chill was 6 (that's six) degrees. He was soldering the spade
lugs on my rotor cable.
It was so cold that he climbed down at one point, found a
large
cardboard box, cut it so that it made a large flat
surface that
could be bent to a desired configuration, took it back up
and
used that as a personal wind protector. Doubtless it also served
to keep the wind off the butane soldering iron tip, as
well.
I am not denigrating the other soldering irons/pencils
that some
of the towertalk reflectees are boosting. I am simply saying
that I have had good experience with the Radio Shack
model. Of
course, if you insist on trying to use the original tip
(linear
tapered to a very fine, small tip designed for small
printed
circuit board construction) then I could certainly
understand
your comments.
The one I use has successfully transferred enough
heat to be able to properly install coax connectors on
coax in
cold weather.
I really like mine. The
Radio Shack butane
soldering iron has performed yeoman service for me.
So there!
Take that! In your face!
<<Grin>>
Flame suit on.
Rod, N5HV
w5hvv@aeneas.net
=====
From: Al Samson <N0NQX@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu,
Yes it is the easiest and handiest tool you can buy. Check out
this web page for more.
http://www.solder-it.com
Press W Jones wrote:
Best thing I've seen in years is the "SOLDER
IT" butane gear -
not only the best pencil by far, but the little
"Pistol" style is
the handiest thing you could carry on a tower top. Their
solder
works great, too, and if you ever see their man Fred Doob, at a
hamfest, don't miss his demo.
> Press Jones, N8UG, The Wireman, Inc.,
> use n8ug@juno.com or (864) 895-4195 for tech help
> orders only use 800-727-WIRE(9473) or
cqwire@juno.com
> www.thewireman.com Bargains + Hamfest schedule at
> THE WIRE LINE(http://thewireman.com/wireline.html)
=====
From: Chuck <dietz@texas.net>
Date:
Subject:
solder jobs up the tower
Best thing I've seen in years is the "SOLDER
IT" butane gear - It
also works good with regular solder. I find this combination the
most convenient for repairing beverage breaks. (Along with
liquid tape.)
Chuck, KZ5MM
=====
From: k1am@ids.net (Jeff Bouvier)
Date: Thu,
[Solder It] is definitely the way to go. I've been using the
"pencil" for a few years and it works great.
Much better than
Radio Shack butane setup.
Check out http://www.solder-it.com/ .
Jeff Bouvier K1AM
=====
From: "M.G. Brafford"
<brad4@bellatlantic.net>
Date: Thu,
Check out the Solder it web site at
http://www.solder-it.com/#BT-50
Mick W4YV
=====
TECHNIQUE
=====
From: FSWF37A@prodigy.com (JAMES T BRANNIGAN)
Subject: [TowerTalk] Bill Orr
on PL-259's
The key to any job is having the right tools. I use good
PL-
259's, good quality cable, thin 60-40 solder and a large
100 watt
soldering IRON. A 75 - 100 watt soldering IRON has enough
mass so
when applied to a connector the tip temperature will drop
only
slightly. A
soldering gun has a relatively small mass. When the
soldering gun tip is applied to a PL-259, the temperature
drops
and the gun
must heat up again. This is what causes the coax to
overheat.
>From Bill Orr's "Wire Antennas for Radio
Amateurs" 1972 for
RG/8 type cable
+ Practice on a scrap piece of cable.
+ Slide the coupling on with the ring threads towards the
open
end of the cable. (Don't laugh, I've done it backwards)
+ With a sharp utility knife circumscribe a cut, at right
angles
to the cable, and remove 1 1/2 inches of the outside
jacket
+ Use a vice to hold the cable.
+ Without disturbing the braid, quickly and smoothly tin
the
exposed shield braid making it a solid entity. Don't
overheat the
braid or
the insulation will squirt out.
+ Let the tinned shield braid cool completely.
+ The next step is to trim the soldered braid to the
correct
length. Use a
miniature tubing cutter to cut the tined braid so
that 7/16 inch
is left on the cable end. Tighten the tubing
cutter slightly and rotate it around the cable. After one
turn,
tighten the wheel again. After 5 or 6 turns the cutter will
neatly slice through the tinned braid.
+ Remove the unwanted braid with diagonal cutters.
+ With a sharp utility knife cut away the inner
insulation so
that 1/16 inch of insulation extends beyond the soldered
braid.
+ Tin the exposed center conductor.
+ Let the center conductor cool completely.
+ Put a little silicon grease on the outer insulation and
screw
on the PL-259 until it seats and the shield is visible
through
all holes.
+ Place the soldering iron on the connector by the solder
holes
and heat until the solder begins to flow. Flow solder
into the
holes as quickly as possible. Turn the cable as
necessary.
+ Let the connector cool completely.
+ Solder the center conductor.
+ Let the connector cool completely.
+ File the tip of the center conductor pin smooth.
+ Check your work.
This was harder to describe than it is to actually
do. I've done
hundreds of connectors this way and after a little
practice it
never fails. Tinning the shield braid and using a heavy
soldering
iron is the key to the process.
A tip for BNC and N connectors. Use curved toe nail
scissors to
trim the braid.
-- Jim, WB2TPS
===========================================================
From: John Brosnahan
<broz@csn.net>
Date:
After posting my technique on installing PL-259s I
received a
number of off-line replies about making sure to tell
everyone to
tin the braid first.
That is precisely what I DO NOT DO and for good
reasons. The
W6SAI, Bill Orr, technique is one I used for a period of
time and
it wants the braid to be tinned first as well. And it also cuts
the braid with a tubing cutter as I also did for a period
of
time.
Here is a brief set of comments about why I recommend NOT
to tin
the braid first.
John W0UN
-----------------
Addendum to the Post -- Details On Installing PL-259s
One reason PL-259s are not well liked is that many of the
procedures to install them take so much time. If the proper
procedure is used the installation can be done very
quickly.
This is not a big issue if you are just putting on a
single
connector--but if you are putting on many connectors the
wasted
time on tinning and trimming with a tubing cutter can
really add
up. I
actually ENJOY installing PL-259s now that I can do it
very quickly and now that the results are so good! Plus I enjoy
the ego trip of being the only one on my block who can
put on a
PL-259 and have it look like it was done
professionally. Of
course with 160 acres I AM THE ONLY ONE ON MY BLOCK.
Here are a list of reasons why not to tin the braid--but
if you
insist on trimming the braid then follow my procedure on
cutting
the jacket and braid before tinning the braid--this way
there
will be no need for the tubing cutter part (which I don't like
because it tends to smash the braid down into the
dielectric).
Why I don't tin the braid on RG-11 and RG-213 before
installing
PL-259s.
1) It takes
time and that is why PL-259s are hated!
2) It
subjects the dielectric to unnecessary heat.
3) It leaves a
residue of flux (which can be cleaned--but takes
even more time) and the flux may be hygroscopic.
4) Solder can
wick under the jacket causing it to bulge and
making it more difficult to insert into the connector
Why I no longer drill out the holes.
Drilling out the holes to a larger size has also been
suggested
and it was something I used to do on a regular
basis. I'd buy 20
PL-259s and drill them all out and then throw them into
the
storage bin for later use--at least this way the drilling
was
done in mass production style.
There is nothing wrong with drilling out the holes a bit,
except
that it takes time.
It does make it easier to solder to the
(UNTINNED) braid.
Again the secret is to have a small enough tip
so that the tip can touch the braid without heating the
body of
the connector until after some solder has been wicked
into the
braid--then just continue the heating of the body and
flow the
solder into the hole until the hole is nicely
filled. You just
have to find a soldering iron with a small enough tip
while
having enough heat capacity and a high enough temperature
so that
the body can be heated up very quickly.
=====
From: force12@interserv.com
Oh boy -- difficult to put into words; however, it is in ARRAY
OF
LIGHT, so if you have a FAX, I can FAX those pages to
you. Have
a good day and 73,
Tom, N6BT
Force 12 Antennas and Systems
(Home Page
http://www.QTH.com/force12)
====================================================
From: FXBEAMMEUP@aol.com
Regarding my method for 259 soldering using small torch
-- first
I gently scrape braid and connector (around holes) with a
razor
-- then when assembly is ready to solder I heat connector
just a
little around hole and then I "go for it" by
applying THIN
regular solder while applying flame at same time. (guess
u just
have to practice a little--seems to work for me and
results are
nice and shiny and, I believe, effective. Solder is just regular
stuff----never heard of eutectic before my subscription
to
TowerTalk -- Scott K3FXB
=====
From: N6ZZ@aol.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Installing
Coax Connectors - Summary
It looks like this thread is gradually thinning
out----thanks for
some very interesting comments from a multitude of
folks. We've
covered the Bill Orr procedure, the use of butane
torches, "Old
Yeller" the beloved ancient Weller, professional
crimping tools,
the alternative of feeding your antennas with twinlead, and
spawned a whole new series of corny limericks containing
the word
"eutectic". This productivity truly boggles the
mind. And I
think it was KE3Q who suggested a videotape of W0UN
installing a
PL259 for presentation at the
one could have a contest of all these respondent in
action, using
their favorite methods....oops, Contesting is another
reflector.
Here are a few additional responses to the query that
were sent
to me directly that I wanted to pass on to the reflector:
---From K6NA:
The method mentioned to you by N4SI is pretty close, but
I don't
much like the torch unless you are on a 100-ft tower and
there is
no other way.
The key is proper pre-tinning of the undisturbed
braid. Let it
cool, and then make the cut with a miniature tubing
cutter. Buy
one, they are not expensive.
Another key is use only teflon
connectors if you don't have
perfect technique.
That way you do not melt the connector
dielectric if you are a bit slow.
Another hint:
The common generic "
available everywhere these days (i.e. non-Amphenol) have a design
flaw which if not addressed will lead to problems every
time.
These have a body which has too large an interior
diameter in the
area where the tinned braid is to be inserted. If the braid is
smoothly pretinned, and then
the connector is screwed on over the
outer jacket as it should be, you can look closely at the
holes
and see that THERE IS A GAP ALL AROUND, between the
tinned braid
and the body!
I really think the designer thought he was doing
us a favor, thinking that we needed "help"
stuffing all that
braid in there.
(Some people actually fan the braid back on
itself and jam it all in there, and never solder it...
maybe the
designer was one of these guys.)
Anyway, the gap is a killer. As we all learned on page one of
our Heathkit assembly manuals,
THE TWO SURFACES TO BE SOLDERED
MUST BE IN PHYSICAL CONTACT. So after I insert the plug body
onto the tinned braid, I lay the connector on a piece of
soft
wood (this keeps the exposed male thread from being
damaged), and
with a hammer and dull punch I make four indentations,
between the four holes, in the body so that the body
touches the
braid in at least four places. Now you have excellent
conductivity and heat transfer to both surfaces, and a
finished
connector which is also much stronger and won't pull
apart with a
load on it.
Believe me, I have seen or heard of many PL-259
failures using these generic teflon
connectors and I will bet
that most are due to this design flaw and a failure to
correct
for it. Since
I developed my hammer-and-punch method years ago,
I have never seen a failure. I use the method on Amphenol,
too,
even though the gap is smaller (I have not measured
it). Last
tip: Use a
minimum 140-watt gun for soldering the body. Bigger
is even better (which means faster heat transfer).
---From KL7HF:
The secret is in proper tinning of the shield and center
conductor after cutting the insulation to the proper
dimensions.
The connector should screw on tightly. (If you don't have
to use
pliers, then it isn't correct!) And then, a good solder
job on
the shield without melting the insulation. It is tough,
but can
be done. Don't use a torch. I take the tip off the soldering gun
and use the connector as the tip.
Also - a lot of coax is not designed to have PL-259
connectors.
RG-213 is an example. It is a tad smaller OD than the
connector
requires. It
can be done, but is not recommended. RG-213 is
supposed to use Type 'N' connectors. To use PL-259s, you
have to
increase the diameter of the shield in some fashion.
(Real thick
solder will do it, but again, you're on your own that
way. Not a
good process.
---From W7NI:
There are couple of things I find are very helpful:
1. Use the
best quality connector you can find.
I use Amphenol,
silver plated, teflon
insulation. They cost a couple of
bucks
each but they are worth it (and they will take the power
of two
4-1000As!)
2. Make sure
the coax braid is bright and shiny copper.
If it
is oxidized or black, it won't take solder very
well. Try
stripping a foot or so further back to see if the braid
looks
better there.
If not, toss the coax and get new stuff.
3. Use a big
enough iron. I use about a 200 watter. This
may
be overkill, but it heats the shell of the connector up
real fast
and you are done with the job before you can melt the
dielectric
of the coax.
4. Use a
little soldering paste where the shield is visible
through the holes in the connector.
- Phil, N6ZZ
============================================================
From: Jan & Del Seay
<seay@Alaska.NET>
Try taking the tip off, and put the connector between the
two
metal legs, making the connector the new tip. It's the easiest
to get even heat, and with practice make the best looking
solder
joints you've seen on a PL-259. de KL7HF
===========================================================
From: n4si@pobox.com
For RG8 type coax, I strip approximately (I never measure
it) 1
1/4" of jacket. With my nifty soldering station (if
I'm inside;
I'll use my torch if I'm outside) I tin the braid for
about 1/2"
centered about 5/8" from the edge of the jacket.
When all is
cool, I use a tubing cutter to trim the tinned braid
approximately 1/2" from the edge of I now have about
3/4" of
center conductor, and about 1/2" of tinned shield
with a nice,
slight taper at the end of the cable.
Rod N4SI
(c) 5 November, 1996
=================================================================
UP THE TOWER -- HIGH IN THE SKY
From: K7LXC <K7LXC@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998
Subject: solder jobs up the tower
In a message dated 98-04-15, k4oj@ij.net writes:
> [speaking of a homemade extension cord, made of Romex,]...this
is also very nice to have if you have to use an electric
drill up
in the air, to drill out a stripped bolt, or somesuch - the
battery drills just don't cut it unless you have very
deep
pockets for the really good ones! A very handy tower item.
Please use a GFI so that you don't wind up as a Silent
Key.
An electrician and the National Electrical Code would have
apoplexy over a couple of the solutions offered here. USE
AT YOUR
OWN RISK! They are not endorsed by me, TowerTalk or anyone else.
Soldering a coax connector on a tower is a real challenging
proposition.
If you can haul a temporary extension cord up
there, use a 200-250 watt gun. Two guys on the tower are real
handy. The other guy can help to shield the wind and use
one of
those little butane guns to contribute heat to the
connector. If
you're by yourself, you may not be able to do it. --
Steve K7LXC
=====
From: "Dick Green"
<dick.green@valley.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998
Well, I can tell you how a friend of mine does it, but
first:
DISCLAIMER --DO NOT TRY THIS, IT CAN BE DANGEROUS OR EVEN
FATAL
IF NOT DONE PROPERLY.
(of course, when you compare it to the potential danger
of using
a propane torch at the top of a tower, it might not look
so bad.)
My friend unplugs the coax at the antenna, attaches (via
a
homemade SO239-to-AC-outlet-box adapter) a
temperature-regulated
soldering station with a big tip, returns to the shack
and
attaches the other end of the coax to a 110VAC outlet
(via a
homemade two-prong-plug-to-SO239 adapter), returns to the
antenna, solders away, turns off the iron, returns to the
shack,
unplugs the coax from the AC, returns to the antenna,
disconnects
the soldering iron, and reattaches the coax. Only three
trips up
and down the tower! This can be reduced to one trip by
utilizing
a friend in the shack and a pair of handy-talkies, but
you really
have to trust that your friend will do exactly what you
tell
him/her (it could be too tempting for a spouse,
especially if you
carry life insurance ;-).
I did this once in desperation during a contest (raining,
in the
dark) when critters chewed through the coax where it
attached to
my lone ground-mounted vertical 250 feet from the house.
You have
to be EXTREMELY careful in fabricating your adapters not
to
connect the hot side of the AC to the ground portion of
the SO239
connectors (use a non-reversible two-pronged AC plug),
and, just
in case, NEVER TOUCH THE CONNECTORS WHEN THE SETUP IS
PLUGGED IN.
ALSO NOTE THAT THERE IS NO GROUND SAFETY WIRE IN THIS
SETUP.
I DON'T RECOMMEND THAT ANYONE TRY THIS BECAUSE IT IS
CLEARLY NOT
SAFE AND NOT COMPLIANT WITH ANY CODE STANDARDS AND I
DON'T WANT
TO GET SUED. I'M DISCLAIMING ALL RESPONSIBILITY TO PEOPLE
WHO ARE
STUPID ENOUGH TO TRY THIS.
I just thought you might like to know how it has been
done by
foolish people.
Dick, WC1M
=====
From: "Barry Kutner"
<w2up@itw.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998
On 15 Apr 98, Dick Green <dick.green@valley.net>
wrote:
My friend unplugs the coax at the antenna, attaches (via
a
homemade SO239-to-AC-outlet-box adapter)
W2UP replies:
Yes, that is nuts!
I've never had the need to solder up there, but after
foolishly
thinking a battery powered drill could drill a 1/4 inch
hole thru
a 1/4 wall, hi carbon steel mast, I bought 2 - 100 ft
extension
cords (the orange, 3 cond ones
made for outdoors) and brought it
up the tower with me, tied to my belt. Should work for a
heavy
duty soldering gun too, on a non-windy day.
Barry Kutner, W2UP Internet:
w2up@itw.com
=====
From: Larry Babb <babblarr@cwis.isu.edu>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998
Grover Yarbrough wrote:
I had replied privately to the original question of what to
use, before reading about people concocting ways to get
110v up
the tower.
wow!! So, I will include
this
for the benefit of all those who read. I do field
engineering work and some time ago, I acquired a butane
powered
soldering iron.
It has a large barrel handle for the butane and
is filled as one would a cigarette lighter. It has variable heat
control and gets very hot if turned up. It has been my best
solution for a soldering iron where 110 is not
available. Please
don't take the chance of putting 110 on coax and
alligator clips
to get to the plug!
I find it hard to believe people do these
things.
The $30.00 to $40.00 an iron would cost is pretty cheap
compared to the alternative. The one I use also has a self
contained igniter.
Maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to bring the
coax down to ground level and do it safely? As opposed to doing
things that have a high risk factor? 73
>
> That is the most ridiculous method ever published in
any form,
in any HAM related topic. The probability of electrocution is
immense and you stand to be in the path searched for
least
resistance while attached to the grounded tower. Do that
again and likely you will be the next silent key!
> Grover KM5HB
=====
From: jfeustle
<jfeustle@uoft02.utoledo.edu>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998
The 110v through the coax looks like a great way to
reposition
the dummy load to the top of your tower. Why, for a while
it will
probably scare the birds off your beam too. If you raise
and
lower other antennas via a pulley system, the same dummy
might
double as a counterpoise. Has anyone worked out the
takeoff and
arrival angles for a cadaver? Can we send a second person
up and
work out phased cadavers? Do these work better with
elevated
radials? I believe that centuries-long traditions require
direct
burial. The
research possibilities here are eternal. Man, I've
seen and done some dumb stuff in my life, but this is
something
else.
With reference to battery powered drills, try the Dewalt with the
18v battery pack. It's a little pricey, but will drill
forever.
Joe, N8JF
=====
From: Tom Rauch W8JI
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998
I used to do something similar.
I have two boxes with 48 volt 2 amp transformers with
SO-239's
and F connectors on the 48 volt side. I step the line
voltage
down (and most importantly isolate it from ground) at the
shack,
and step it up on the outdoor box with a pigtail. The 120
VAC
secondary is floated, of course, with NO ground
reference.
This works very well if I have to change a small
component on a
receive antenna control box over 1000 ft from the house,
even if
the Weller solder station heats a tad slow at that
distance.
Now I use a little ni-cad
battery powered iron, but still have
the backup system.
Tom W8JI
w8ji.tom@MCIONE.com
=====
From: "Jim White, K4OJ" <k4oj@ij.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998
Keep your eyes open at Flea Markets, not necessarily the
Ham type
- for boxes of house wiring - usually 250 feet long rolls
of say
14/3. Usually
you can offer someone five or ten bucks for these.
Buy a male and female plug from the home center/hswe store, tape
it to the tower and voila, you can have 110V (a little
voltage
drop) at the top of the tower whenever you plug the male
end in
down on the ground.
Since house wiring is soft copper it is easy
to pull up the female end of the "extension
cord" on your work
rope and then wrap the malleable copper wire around the
leg of
the tower, it will stay there until you unwind it when
done.
This is also very nice to have if you have to use an
electric
drill up in the air, to drill out a stripped bolt, or somesuch -
the battery drills just don't cut it unless you have very
deep
pockets for the really good ones!
Jim, K4OJ
=====
Notes from your friendly compiler:
1. I do not
like to climb the tower with an extension cord
attached to my climbing belt. A child could come along and pull
a climber off the tower. The cable could become ensnared. Any
number of bad things could happen. I carry up a light line and
drop it down, and then pull up whatever I want by asking
someone
on the ground to attach it to the line.
2. Some of
the opinions on small butane powered irons or torches
seem to divide along geographic lines. No 15 watt equivalent
iron is going to solder anything at a height of 90' in
the open
air here in New England on the Friday morning before CQ
WW CW
(the last full weekend in November, and one of the
official days
for PL-259 soldering). Obviously Northerners favor a "real
man's" heat source.
3. It is hard
to keep a flame lighted in the open air, way up in
the sky, with a wind present. For this reason, I personally
favor extension cords and a 240 watt Weller gun.
4. If there
is even a hint of wind, I will try to bring along a
human shield, or a five gallon bucket, so that I can do
the
soldering out of the wind. I was, however, intrigued by the idea
of simply bringing up some discarded cardboard and
wrapping it
around two sides of the tower to make your own wind
shield. That
was a neat idea, and you can't beat the price. Around here, the
prevailing wind comes from the NW, so remember to wet
your finger
and stick it up in the air. Else you'll have to learn how to
find true North . . .
-- Fred K1VR (fhopengarten@mba1972.hbs.edu)